7th trip

Summer Vacation in Colorado (beginning)

Today, your sto­ry­teller will be me, Levy, and as T.S. already wrote, I am her son-in-law. With her per­mis­sion, I decid­ed to share my impres­sions of our trip to Steam­boat this sum­mer. I’ll say in advance that the sto­ry turned out to be quite long detailed, in two parts.

Why Steamboat?

First, a lit­tle back­sto­ry, why Steam­boat. I have been ski­ing since I was 14, I love it, and when I came to Amer­i­ca, I decid­ed to “hook” the whole fam­i­ly on ski­ing, espe­cial­ly since Valenti­na also want­ed to ski (she gen­er­al­ly loves to spend her free time active­ly), and Mark was not against try­ing. Nat­u­ral­ly, we first decid­ed to scout our state for ski­ing. T.S. wrote about this at the very begin­ning in this sto­ry. We went to Pine­top 8 more times after that, stay­ing in dif­fer­ent places, but we were not par­tic­u­lar­ly impressed by the place or the ser­vice. In real­i­ty, it’s not bad, but as they say, it depends on what you’re com­par­ing it to.

So we turned our atten­tion to neigh­bor­ing states, as we have 3 of them near­by that have world-class ski resorts: Cal­i­for­nia, Col­orado, and Utah. We have been to all three, in win­ter and sum­mer; T.S. wrote about our sum­mer trip to Utah ear­li­er. In win­ter, this Feb­ru­ary, we were in Alta and Snow­bird with­out her — stun­ning­ly beau­ti­ful places. I might still tell you about Cal­i­for­nia and win­ter Utah, and we were in Col­orado last win­ter in Steam­boat (this is our sec­ond win­ter trip there; the first time we went with­out T.S. two years ear­li­er), about which she has already writ­ten. In July 2018, we were in Avon in Col­orado. But we had nev­er been to Steam­boat in the sum­mer, so we decid­ed to go and explore the area and get to know the town bet­ter, so that we could nav­i­gate win­ter (which is much eas­i­er to do in summer).

Preparing for the Trip and Packing

Steamboat Springs ski area at summer

“Our hotel” was ful­ly booked because it’s not a hotel but a time­share :), and as I already men­tioned, they pri­mar­i­ly focus on their mem­bers, and then sell the remain­ing avail­able spots. This makes book­ing quite a chal­lenge because they don’t always have spots avail­able in advance; they reserve them for mem­bers, and close to the dates, every­thing can already be booked, so you need to “catch the moment” when the time­share opens sales for reg­u­lar peo­ple. This time, cir­cum­stances aligned such that we were look­ing for a hotel 2 weeks before the trip, and, of course, Wyn­d­ham was booked. Valenti­na takes a very seri­ous and thor­ough approach to search­ing and book­ing hotels; she has her own tried-and-true method, and con­sid­er­ing our spe­cif­ic require­ments (full kitchen, 2 bath­rooms, etc.), the search area was lim­it­ed. After an after­noon of intense search­ing, a few apart­ments and a cou­ple of hous­es remained as options. After anoth­er hour of dis­cus­sion and read­ing com­ments, we decid­ed on an apart­ment found on Airbnb.

We were lucky; the apart­ment had just been post­ed a few days ago by the own­ers, there had been ren­o­va­tions, and no one had been there before us (at least, that’s how we explained the recent list­ing date and the excel­lent con­di­tion of the appli­ances and furniture/​rooms). The apart­ment was locat­ed on the sec­ond floor of one of the high-rise build­ings right in the square in front of the “ski” moun­tain. This is the per­fect loca­tion for active recre­ation in Steam­boat, espe­cial­ly in win­ter 🙂 but in win­ter, the cost of this apart­ment is astro­nom­i­cal [~$1500 per day]; it’s also much more expen­sive than Wyn­d­ham in sum­mer [~$450 per day], but the loca­tion is sig­nif­i­cant­ly bet­ter 🙂 The build­ing con­sists entire­ly of apart­ments, which are all rent­ed out, there is a lob­by with staff serv­ing the build­ing, there is a pool, under­ground park­ing, and it all very much resem­bles a hotel, just instead of rooms, there are pri­vate apart­ments. This is a com­mon prac­tice in tourist towns.

Ear­li­er, I men­tioned that in win­ter we rent cars. If any­one is inter­est­ed in how a par­tic­u­lar car per­formed, I’m hap­py to share my impres­sions. Leave com­ments, and I’ll cre­ate a sep­a­rate page with reviews (though the rel­e­vance of the infor­ma­tion fades over time as new cars come out each year). But for sum­mer, we have a great crossover, capa­ble of com­fort­ably tak­ing us along sum­mer roads to any desired loca­tion. A few days before depar­ture, we start­ed slow­ly pack­ing things and already packed some items.

We usu­al­ly take quite a lot of things with us. Besides reg­u­lar cloth­ing and shoes, we take hik­ing gear: spe­cial light­weight fab­ric pants, long-sleeve shirts with mesh inserts, hats — I have a great hat with fab­ric around it to pro­tect my neck and, if desired, my face from the sun, water­proof boots, wool com­pres­sion socks, col­lapsi­ble Leki poles, back­packs with a reser­voir for water and small items like a knife, flash­light, etc. We also bring our own spices (they’re not avail­able in hous­es and hotels, and if they are, they come in small, one- or two-day pack­ages), and some food. We’ve tried var­i­ous options over time for food. On our last win­ter trip to Steam­boat, we prepped sev­er­al dish­es in advance and took them in foil con­tain­ers, and on site, we just reheat­ed them. But late­ly, we’ve con­clud­ed that we can take a set of food for the first evening and buy the rest on site. Pre­vi­ous­ly, we brought a pack of water with us, and then had to car­ry it from the store dur­ing our vaca­tion — now we have this awe­some water fil­ter, which seri­ous­ly makes our trips easier.

The Journey

We pack all this vari­ety of items grad­u­al­ly over sev­er­al days, and then we pack every­thing in the evening before depar­ture, leav­ing only what’s in the refrig­er­a­tor for the morn­ing. Even the food for the road is pre­pared the night before. This allows us to leave ear­ly in the morn­ing to arrive while it’s still light out­side. This is impor­tant because it’s hard­er to nav­i­gate the area in the dark, and dri­ving at night is not some­thing I enjoy. So we left at 6 AM and head­ed along Route 101 towards the 17th Inter­state High­way.

We dri­ve along the 17th to Flagstaff, after which we switch to Route 89, then 160 through Tuba City and fur­ther to the north­ern bor­der of Ari­zona through the Indi­an reser­va­tion, pass­ing Kayen­ta, switch­ing to Route 191 and enter­ing Utah. Then we head north­west through Utah, pass­ing by small charm­ing towns. For exam­ple, Bland­ing, where there is a con­ve­nient gas sta­tion and a small muse­um with easy park­ing, where we stop to rest and grab a bite. Moab, locat­ed 450 miles from Phoenix, is almost 23 of the way; the city has many good hotels and gas sta­tions, and it’s 30 miles from the turn onto Inter­state 70 before enter­ing Col­orado. If you divide the trip into 2 days, it’s a great city to stop in. From there, we con­tin­ue on Route 70, already in Col­orado, to the small town of Rifle, where we turn onto Route 13, which goes almost all the way to Steam­boat; 40 miles from the des­ti­na­tion, there’s a right turn onto Route 40, which leads direct­ly to Steamboat.

To some, the jour­ney may seem tedious and long, 12 hours (if with­out stops) on the road, but I enjoy dri­ving (if the car is good, fast, and com­fort­able 🙂 ), I even man­age to catch glimpses of the sur­round­ings with one eye. In Ari­zona and the first part of Utah, every­thing is quite uni­form, but then the beau­ti­ful scenery begins. The last third, after the town of Rifle, is a moun­tain road, it’s very beau­ti­ful around, and the road is quite con­ve­nient, despite the high­way num­ber (Route 13).

We drove well; already approach­ing the turn onto Route 13, we smelled smoke (and there was some haze in the sky), and for the next 30 miles after the turn, the smell of smoke per­sist­ed. We had heard about the fires in Col­orado, but hear­ing about them is one thing, and almost dri­ving into them is anoth­er; it was lit­er­al­ly burn­ing just over the neigh­bor­ing moun­tain. But the high­way was not closed, and we real­ly hoped that noth­ing was burn­ing in Steam­boat. As it turned out, Steam­boat was almost sur­round­ed by fires, and smoke could be seen when we went up the mountain.

Since it was sum­mer, we arrived at sun­set, set­tled into the apart­ment (just threw our things down), and decid­ed to take a walk around because we liked the air and the twi­light. We strolled for about 20 min­utes and decid­ed not to do much tomor­row, to set­tle in and maybe explore the sur­round­ings. Upon return­ing to the apart­ment, we began unpack­ing. The apart­ment had a medi­um-sized liv­ing room com­bined with the kitchen, a kitchen with new appli­ances, gran­ite coun­ter­tops, a small entry­way, 2 bath­rooms, and 2 bed­rooms, one small­er and one a bit larger.